Le Grand Véfour
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Your taste of life in Paris and France
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Wednesday, June 2, 2010 • Paris, France
Dear Parler Paris Reader,
It wasn't as difficult as I had expected to get lunch reservations at Le Grand Véfour only two weeks in advance, so it was not surprising that the dining room was only half-full yesterday -- not with tourists, but with mostly French diners who appeared to be quite comfortable in the elaborate surroundings.
Le Grand Véfour is reportedly one of the oldest eating establishments in the city, proud that Napoléon Bonaparte and Joséphine once dined there, known at the time of the French Revolution as the "Café de Chartres," having been opened in 1784 by Antoine Aubertot, then sold to Jean Véfour in 1820. Véfour retired within three years, selling it on to Jean Boissier. Closed between 1905 and 1947, it reopened with the celebrated chef Raymond Oliver in the autumn of 1948 with menus designed by artist Jean Cocteau.
It may well be considered Paris' most beautiful and romantic dining room, and for that reason, it wasn't so important that it had lost one of their three Michelin stars in 2008, to be the perfect setting for an anniversary celebration. The early 19th-century neoclassical décor of large mirrors in gilded frames and painted supraportes that backdrop the dark red velour seating and tables finely set with white linen and crystal, is every bit as elegant as one can imagine. The décor is so revered that the Society of the Louvre has taken on the task of fully restoring the 18th-century decorative art interior.
We had a perfect table in a corner next to an etched-glass window on the Palais Royal. It was a dream come true, having fantasized about that moment for all the years I'd been living in Paris. Lunch is a particular bargain -- at 88€ for several courses. With wine and coffee, expect to spend about 300€ for two.
I've had better meals, at other Michelin-starred restaurants and even in the most plebeian of eateries, so the loss of the star was understandable. Over a large portion of foie gras served with a toasty multi-grained bread that would have been better served with something less delicate in flavor than the goose liver, I found myself story-telling about the 'party-in-your-mouth' "Italian Shrimp" at "Mosca's" in New Orleans.
It didn't matter, and I never let my host know the meal was disappointing. It was more the setting that counted and the feeling that such royalty and 'luminaries' had also had the pleasure. It seems it's living on this reputation...at least for now.
(For more information and photos, visit: www.grand-vefour.com/fr/diaporama.htm and for the Michelin Guide review, visit: http://www.viamichelin.com
The day didn't end with lunch at Le Grand Véfour. Tickets were easy to purchase online to visit the Yves Saint Laurent retrospective exhibition at the Petit Palais. We arrived just as the drizzling started, and entered quickly passing up the long line for those who hadn't planned ahead.
Over 300 models in 15 rooms display his creations produced over the 40-years of his 'reign' as one of the greatest artists of our time. My favorite collection is of his version of a women's "smoking" or black tuxedo -- man-tailored yet oh-so-feminine black on black suits -- about 40 or more. There wasn't a single one I wouldn't have gladly worn.
The exhibition is 'under the patronage of Madame Carla Bruni-Sarkozy in association with the Fondation Pierre Bergé - Yves Saint Laurent' and is on until August 29th, so you have plenty of time to see it, but don't miss it. Even those less fashion-conscious will enjoy seeing it as 'wearable art' if not for what it was -- a concept that changed the way women saw themselves and each other, as more confident, equal, elegant, romantic and sexy.
A la prochaine...
Adrian Leeds
Editor, Parler Paris
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P.S. Erica Simone begin_of_the_skype_highlighting end_of_the_skype_highlighting and other KiptonART Artists Donate Works for American Friends of the Louvre Benefit:
Diane Detalle, Vincent Edmond-Louis, Simone Lourenco, Erica Simone begin_of_the_skype_highlighting end_of_the_skype_highlighting and Serge Strosberg are five artists who currently live in New York and have Parisian roots. They are also KiptonART members who have graciously contributed works to be auctioned off at the Young Patrons Circle of American Friends of the Louvre benefit on June 3. The funds are being raised to help restore the most famous Museum in the world. Merci beaucoup!
Purchase Tickets
www.forbesinc.com/afl/soireeaulouvre/ticket.jsp
Erica Simone begin_of_the_skype_highlighting end_of_the_skype_highlighting, The Kiss. C-print, $2,500
www.kiptonart.com/artists/erica-simone/
P.P.S. Don't forget to tune in to House Hunters International this coming June 6th to see "Settling Down in Paris" - Episode HHINT-402. Scroll down for more information.
P.P.P.S. Mark your calendar for next Tuesday, June 8th, to attend our monthly coffee gathering, "Parler Paris Après Midi," from 3 to 5 p.m. at La Pierre du Marais. Visit http://www.adrianleeds.com/parlerparis/apresmidi.html for more information.
