An Independence Day Parade
Your taste of life in Paris and France
ParlerParis.com
Monday, July 5, 2010 • Paris, France
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Yesterday afternoon I took advantage of the sun on the terrace of Le Saint-Tropez before the next renters arrived. The aqua-colored 'parasol' from "Pier Import" afforded shade over the computer to get some emails written while taking in the bright blue sky and fresh fuchsia pink geraniums (that seem to be loving their new spot high over Le Marais).
Suddenly there was a powerful drum beat coming from rue de Bretagne that got louder as it got closer until one could see at the street crossing a parade causing quite a stir. Lots of neighbors came to their windows to look out and from across the street we exchanged conversation. No one seemed to know what was all the ruckus.
Side note: When you live on a narrow street, such as most in Le Marais, it's not unusual to become very familiar with those living just opposite you, even more so than those in the same building who you pass on the stairwell or meet at the mailboxes. In fact, we know so many intimate things about one another, especially since in the summer, no on bothers to close their windows or draperies.
With camera and keys in hand, I ran down to the street to catch up with the parade. Coming down rue de Bretagne was a troupe of colorfully costumed dancing women led by an African in a feathered headdress, thong and ankle adornments. Following them was a large tympanic band creating the beat to which the women danced. They all wore imprinted T-shirts but because of the strap of the drum, could never get a good look at what it said to learn who they were or why they were there!
Oh well...another typical day living in the City of Light where just about anything is possible.
It was a very different 4th of July than one might imagine Stateside. I was sure my family was barbecuing burgers, hot dogs and chicken, cutting slices of watermelon, munching on potato chips and downing it all with Coca Cola while I was watching this strange parade on a Parisian street. Sure, I was missing the holiday that celebrates America's independence, but remembered that in a few short days, we'll also be celebrating France's liberation from the oppression of a few -- their illustrious royalty.
July 14th is celebrated much like our own July 4th, with family gatherings and fireworks. Of course, hamburgers, hotdogs and fried chicken are not on the traditional menu, but the idea is just the same. Fortunately for Americans in living in France, we have the privilege of taking in both holidays as our own.
Last night American restaurant Joe Allen was filled to the brim with Americans feasting on familiar fare for a taste of the holiday. Even though is was 'so not on my diet,' I ordered a Caesar salad, a bacon burger with fries and cheesecake for dessert. (Yes, I DID eat the burger with my hands!) The only hint of France was the Brouilly red wine in place of a Coke. Today I'm paying for the high caloric splurge, but 4th of July comes only once a year.
On the 14th, the plan is a bit different. We'll be organizing a picnic on the Champ de Mars along with about another 500,000 people, where we will graze on the goodies, pass around cups of wine disguised in soda bottles (alcohol on the grass is illegal!) and wait for the fireworks to begin about 10:00 to 10:45 p.m. They are launched from Pont d'Ièna and viewed perfectly from the Champ de Mars. You see them best from the half-way point back to Ecole Militaire.
If you're planning on doing this, I warn you now. Get there by 4 p.m. to get a spot and spread your blanket. If it's sunny bring an umbrella for shade. There are public toilets, but there may be a long wait. Bring your own food and drinks as there's not much to purchase. Expect it to take a very long time to get home at midnight, be herded in massive crowds to get onto the Métro and in the end, it will all be totally worth it.
The annual celebration has more in store, including a military parade along the Champs-Elysées complete with and air show (14th), the "Bals des Pompiers" (13th and 14th) and a concert at Place de la Bastille (13th). The city Web site tells all (in French) at
paris.fr/, but stay tuned to Parler Paris, as we'll be right in the thick of it all and will keep you informed of recommendations based on many years of experience living in the City of Light.
Adrian Leeds
Editor, Parler Paris
(eating a burger with hands!)
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P.S. Start off the holiday by joining us for our gathering at Parler Paris Après Midi...this coming Tuesday, July 13th from 3 to 5 p.m.
visit parlerparis/apresmidi.html for more information.
P.P.S. The Parler Parlor French-English Conversation Group is open all summer long, but closed for Bastille Day on the 13th and 14th of July. Visit parlerparlor.com for more information.
