Your taste of life in Paris and France
Dear Parler Paris Reader,My cousin's daughter who has been studying in Spain all year landed on my doorstep for a three-day "séjour" in the City of Light. After a brunch of omelet, croissant and hot chocolate, we started off on a mini-tour by strolling down to Place des Vosges, crossing the gardens of the Hôtel de Sully then crossing rue de Rivoli to show her one of the three oldest houses in the city on rue François Miron.
One block further, we landed at the Seine at the corner of the Hôtel de Ville (Pont d'Arcole) where from that vantage point, one can see an amazing vista: the Hôtel de Ville, Notre Dame, the Ile de la Cité, the Ile Saint-Louis, the Centre Pompidou and the Conciergerie, among other things! As many times as I've crossed at that intersection, it had never dawned on me what a special vantage point that is until yesterday afternoon in the bright sun.
With this link in Google Maps, you can have a panoramic view, obviously taken last summer during Paris Plage, by virtue of the tell-tale blue banners along the Seine:google.com/maps
At that point, I left her to wander the streets of Paris on her own armed with a good map and a list of things she wanted to see. Five hours later she returned virtually crippled as she hadn't been off her feet since parting ways at Pont d'Arcole. With three days and a long list of things to see, she is determined to miss as little as possible.
"Seeing Paris" even in this way is, as we all know, barely 'scratching the surface.' I used to joke that it took a lifetime to get to know Paris, but now it's clear that it will take many lifetimes -- no wonder that it is virtually impossible to ever be bored with this city. Each time taking the same paths, there is always something new and different that I had never noticed before or seen in a different way that presented a new perspective.
 
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How many times have I crossed the gardens of the Hôtel de Sully as a pathway between the Place des Vosges and rue Saint-Antoine? It would be impossible to count. The ivy-laden stories-high wall in the gardens go bare every Winter after first turning red in the Fall. The ivy is filled with singing birds and Summer cheer making for a lusciously green backdrop for the temporary sculptures currently displayed there. Now that the early 17th-century stone "hôtel particulier" (private mansion) surrounding the central courtyard has been cleaned and refurbished, the building screams of majestic power -- a classified historic monument (since 1862). Since 1967 it has been the home of the Centre des Monuments Nationaux. Their cars parked in the courtyard, adoringly have little monument silhouettes imprinted all over them like wallpaper.
On the "parvis" (square) in front of the Hôtel de Ville, known as "Place de l'Hôtel de Ville" was an exhibition that ended yesterday -- "Faites l’Europe, le village européen" ("Make Europe the European Village"). The objective was to bring Europe closer to Parisians and visitors to Paris, and to celebrate "Europe Day," May 9th. A band played that drew a crowd and I realized how many different exhibitions and events had taken place on that very spot over the years -- that very spot where, since the French Revolution, much has transpired, including the proclamation of the French Third Republic in 1870 and the famous speech by Charles de Gaulle on August 25th, 1944 during the Liberation of Paris when he greeted the crowd from a front window.
At one time (1802), the square was known as "Place de Grève," meaning a flat area covered with gravel or sand situated on the shores or banks of a body of water. This location that now occupies the square was the point on the sandy right bank of the river where the first harbor of Paris was established. It was here that public meetings took place and where the unemployed came to seek work...and is now why when the French go on strike, they use the term "être en grève."
Sadly, it was also where many public executions took place. None were happening, thank goodness, yesterday afternoon in the glorious sunshine...at least none that we were aware of!
How many lifetimes do we have to discover Paris? Unfortunately, only our one, so one must make the most of it. My young cousin is off again this morning for a tour to take in Le Louvre, the Champs-Elysées, Arc de Triomphe, Eiffel Tower, Invalides, Musée d'Orsay and lord only knows what else she may be capable of cramming into about 12 hours...but in three days, no matter how hard she will have tried, she will have only 'scratched the surface' and be desperate to come back for more.
Mark my words.
Adrian Leeds
Editor, Parler Paris
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P.P.S. Don't forget to come to Parler Paris Après Midi tomorrow afternoon from 3 to 5 p.m. at La Pierre du Marais to hear Judith Merians, business executive, attorney for Hollywood studios and film school professor, discuss the story behind the top film of 2010 “The King’s Speech.” Visit parlerparis.com/apresmidi.html for more information.
